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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.